Comparing Natural Skin Care Brands (Skin Care Preservatives, Part 2)

Welcome to Part 2 of my Guide to Natural Skin Care Preservatives! For this entry, I’ll be surveying several top brands in natural skin care to determine what they’re using to preserve their products and how natural and healthy those ingredients might be.

In Part 1, I discussed the fact that preservatives are necessary in cosmetics and personal care products, especially store-bought products that have a shelf life of 2-3 years. These are controversial ingredients, with some studies opening up the possibility that the most commonly used preservatives, parabens, may be linked to breast cancer in women.

As the field widens and more and more companies are capitalizing on consumer demand for truly natural skin care products, I asked myself:

What do the big natural products brands use to preserve their beauty products?

While there’s no way to be completely sure of the answer to this question, as the information is of course an “insider” thing, it’s possible to make some informed guesses based on ingredient lists. I surveyed some major brands and some relatively unknown brands to get a comparison of the preservatives commonly used.

In choosing cosmetics products to compare, I focused on skin lotions. These typically involve the use of water, which, as I discussed in my post on water in cosmetics products, necessitates the use of preservatives. To investigate the safety of these products, I used the Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database, alongside a little good old fashioned search engine magic.

Terressentials

Terressentials is a fairly radical company carrying USDA certified organic body care products. I discovered them through the Organic Consumers Association. Terressentials’ website is extremely informative, with exhaustive lists on how to identify synthetic ingredients in personal care products. An example of their steadfast adherance to natural products? They do not produce a sunscreen at all, and instead recommend adequate coverage and avoidance of the sun during its peak hours. They feel that even zinc and titanium oxide have too high a potential to produce free radicals when exposed to the sun!

Product Examined: Terressentials Organic Fragrance-free Silken Velvet Body Lotion, USDA Organic, Price $22.50 / 8 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 1/10 (Complete Ingredient List here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: None

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional). It appears that Terressentials has succeeded in avoiding the use of preservatives altogether in their product by replacing the use of water with the use of aloe vera juice, the first ingredient in their lotion. Aloe vera is known as a “self-preserving” substance (alongside things like honey, vinegar, etc.). Its unique properties resist microbials while still retaining a large amount of water (suspended in the aloe).

Badger

Badger’s claim: “We never use chemicals, preservatives, synthetics, GMO’s or any of the other bad stuff that you read so much about.” A few of their lip care products are certified USDA Organic. I actually discovered the Badger company through the Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database, noting that their sunscreen balm was one of the lowest hazards available. Since then I’ve discovered that my brother is actually ga-ga over their balms.

Balms typically do not require the use of an anti-microbial preservative as they are a nearly solid form of oils and oil butters without water. I was curious to see whether they also carried a body lotion, and discovered their “body butter” which comes in a container similar to those typically used to dispense creams or lotions.

Product Examined: Badger Refreshingly Better Cocoa Vanilla Body Butter, Price $10.00 / 7 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: Unlisted (Complete Ingredient List here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: None

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but I note no use of preservatives in Badger’s product. Although Badger’s body butter appears to be marketed as an alternative for those who want something in between a solid balm and a liquid oil, Badger uses no water or aqueous substance in their butter, unlike lotions and creams which normally do contain water. By avoiding water altogether, the Badger company succeeds in meeting their claim to use no preservatives in their skin and body care products.

Green Aroma

Green Aroma is a small handmade soap and lotion company out of Australia. I’ve included them as an example of what you may find through companies, typically individuals, that make and sell handmade products through websites or farmers’ markets. Even a handmade product made with largely organic ingredients may contain synthetic preservatives, so (depending upon your personal preference) investigation is still necessary.

Product Examined: Green Aroma Day Lotion, Price approx. $19 / approx. 1.69 fl. oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: Unlisted (Complete Ingredient List here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Essential oils of peppermint, rosemary and lavender

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but observing the list of ingredients I note no parabens or synthetic preservatives. Green Aroma appears to be relying on a combination of essential oils to preserve their product, coupled with the use of an orange hydrosol instead of plain water, and a container that minimizes airborne contamination does not allow insertion of fingers into the product. The use of essential oils as preservatives is considered by many a risky endeavor, however it is the most natural of possibilities. Some persons may be sensitive to essential oils at the concentrations required for preservative effect. Orange hydrosol does introduce water into a product and therefore necessitates the use of preservatives for protection against microbials. It lowers the pH of a product compared to water, thus enhancing the efficacy of preservatives, but is not a preservative in and of itself.

When using a beauty product with no broad spectrum synthetic preservatives, it is often the case that the shelf life is lowered to the range of 2-6 months, versus the 2-3 years typical of preservatives such as parabens. I found no reference to shelf life on the Green Aroma site. In this case, a suggestion may be to inquire as to shelf life, or the use of undisclosed additional preservative additives.

Miessence

Miessence is an Australian company also listed on the site of the Organic Consumer Association. As an international company, their cosmetics products may carry Australian, US, and European Organic certifications.

Product Examined: Miessence Nourishing Hand Cream, Australian Certified Organic, Price approx. $29 / 1.35 fl. oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 2/10 (Complete Ingredient list here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Ethanol (alcohol)

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but observing the list of ingredients I note no parabens or synthetic preservatives. Miessence’s hand cream also has aloe vera juice as its primary ingredient, similar to Terressential’s lotion. However, water is its third ingredient, and organic ethanol its fourth. Alcohol is well known as an effective preservative and is inhospitable to micro-organisms. According to the Skin Deep database, ethanol’s hazard score is 5/10 as a possible carcinogen with potential developmental and/or reproductive toxicity.

Ethanol is also a solvent which may be irritating and can enhance penetration of the skin through to the bloodstream, posing a problem if other harmful ingredients are contained in the product. Other potentially problematic ingredients in Miessence’s cream are its use of lecithin listed with a hazard of 3/10 with concerns over possible contamination by nitrosamines. Miessence’s lecithin is plant-derived from non-GMO soybean oil. Lecithin “can form carcinogenic nitrosamine compounds, on the skin or in the body after absorption, if mixed with amines.” It is possible that both ethanol and lecithin are actually less harmful in Miessence’s products due to their combination with low risk natural ingredients.

Dr. Bronner’s / Sun Dog

Dr. Bronner’s is a well-known brand in pure, all-natural castile soaps based on organic olive oil. They also now manufacture a line of personal care products, many of which are actually USDA Certified Organic.

Product Examined: Dr. Bronner’s Lavender Coconut Organic Lotion, USDA Organic, Price $9.99 / 8 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 2/10 (Complete Ingredient list here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Ethanol (alcohol)

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but observing the list of ingredients I note no parabens or synthetic preservatives. However, the product does contain water as the first ingredient, and organic ethanol as the fourth ingredient. Alcohol is well known as an effective preservative and is inhospitable to micro-organisms. According to the Skin Deep database, ethanol’s hazard score is 5/10 as a possible carcinogen with potential developmental and/or reproductive toxicity.

Ethanol is also a solvent which may be irritating and can enhance penetration of the skin through to the bloodstream, posing a problem if other harmful ingredients are contained in the product. Other ingredients in the Dr. Bronner’s lotion are a level 2/10 risk or lower. It is possible that ethanol is actually less harmful in Dr. Bronner’s products due to its combination with low risk natural ingredients.

Aubrey Organics

The Organic Consumer Association has a bit of a beef with Aubrey. They state: “We do not support the use of the word “Organic” in this company’s name, as only a few of the products are USDA Organic. Look for the USDA seal.” By contrast, they mention the company Organic Essence whose entire product line is certified USDA Organic. Previously, I emailed Aubrey for comment on the controversy surrounding their use of grapefruit seed extract (which they have renamed “citrus seed extract”), to which I received no reply.

Product Examined: Aubrey Evening Primrose Soothing Hand & Body Lotion, Price $13.95 / 8 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 2/10 (Complete Ingredient list here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Grapefruit seed extract

I detailed the controversy regarding grapefruit seed extract in my earlier post on the safety of GSE as a preservative, citing studies done that revealed that most commercial GSE in fact contains synthetic preservatives, possibly a result of the intense chemical processes and agents (including ammonium) involved in the manufacture of grapefruit seed extract. Skin Deep refers to the contamination concerns of GSE including benzethonium chloride, methylparaben, and triclosan. Despite the controversy regarding GSE being several years old now, I am unable to locate anything on Aubrey’s site refuting the presence of these ingredients in their citrus seed extract.

Burt’s Bees

Burt’s Bees is available these days at many super-markets and big box stores. I was definitely curious to see how they fared in the Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database. Their brand, as a whole, had products that ranked up to a 6/10 on the Skin Deep hazard score system, compared with a brand such as Badger whose max hazard score was 2/10. Their creams, lotions, and shampoos appeared to have the larger hazard scores, whereas their deodorant, toothpaste, eyeliner, and lip products seemed to tend toward low hazard scores.

Product Examined: Burt’s Bees Healthy Healing Carrot Nutritive Body Lotion, Price $9.00 / 8 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 4/10 (Complete Ingredient list here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Glucose oxidase (honey enzyme), lactoperoxidase (milk enzyme), sodium borate (borax)

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but observing the list of ingredients it appears that Burt’s Bees’ lotion is paraben-free and preserved by synthetically derived proteins from milk and honey, plus the natural toxin borax, a mineral powder. Borax is rated a hazard score of 4/10 in the Skin Deep database. Other uses for borax are as a laundry booster and an insect pesticide. According to Wikipedia it is “not accutely toxic” however “simple exposure can cause respiratory and skin irritation.”

Despite the Skin Deep rating, Borax is commonly recommended as a safe, generations-old household cleaner. My understanding is that the chemically similar Boric Acid is regularly used as a pesticide in schools, presenting the safest alternative in environments where children are present.

California Baby

I’ve always wondered about California Baby’s marketing for babies and adults with sensitive skin, when so many of their skin care products contain a healthy dose of essential oils and fragrances, which in general are known to be potentially irritating. When trying California Baby to help heal my son’s eczema, he refused to use it, saying that it “burned his skin”. On the other hand, there are those who say it works wonders. California Baby’s hazard scores in the Skin Deep Cosmetic Safety Database range from 0 to 5/10.

This is purely informed guessing on my part (I am not a cosmetics professional or health professional), but like Burt’s Bees, their ingredients have more of a feel of being derived from natural sources, as opposed to using simple natural oils themselves. Their website does not disclose ingredients, so my comments are based on Skin Deep’s ingredient listing.

Product Examined: California Baby Calming Everyday Lotion, Price $10.00 / 6.5 oz.

Skin Deep Potential Hazard Score: 2/10 (Complete Ingredient List here)

Possible Preservative Ingredients: Polyaminopropyl biguanide

The following is noted in the California Baby ingredient list: “polyaminopropyl biguanide (extremely mild antimicrobial; no formaldehyde or formaldehyde donors, non-solvent and non-genotoxic).” Polyaminopropyl biguanide appears to be a synthetic preservative commonly used in contact lens solution, as such several studies have tested its safety on humans and on rabbits (of note to vegans).

Of the three studies I encountered, only one indicated it may be “toxic to the corneal epithelium.” Sensitivity of the cornea, one would presume, is far greater than sensitivity of the skin. Its use is restricted in Japan, as such its hazard in the Skin Deep database is listed as 2/10.

Conclusion: Preservatives in Name Brand Natural Cosmetics

None of the beauty products I investigated contained parabens, clearly indicating that major brands are attempting to creatively steer away from their use due to public awareness of their potential as carcinogens.

I have to say that given the possibilities, the Terressentials line intrigues me and impresses me the most, but is frankly out of my price range! My personal leanings from among the choices above would probably be toward the Badger line of products. The idea of avoiding preservatives altogether just seems smart. And as I’ve experienced, oils can be extremely effective in moisturizing especially when applied after a shower. They serve to protect the moisture already absorbed by the skin, and have helped me through many a dry winter. But then I’m a sucker for keeping it simple!

Whatever your personal choices, it’s encouraging to see companies going so far to provide safer and more natural skin care products, with a variety of options for choosing safe preservatives, or none at all.

Support Small Business Handmades

I had hoped to include a few more products by small, family-based businesses in this list, but unfortunately these hand-made websites are less standardized in disclosing their list of ingredients. Many that I encountered appeared to use either parabens or GSE extract in their formulations. Some companies refer to their skin care products as “lotion bars” or “lotion sticks” when they appear to be balms or salves.

To enjoy the benefits of knowing the person who provides your skin care, I’d suggest doing a search for:

• handmade (”preservative-free” OR “no preservatives”) (body care OR cosmetics OR skin care OR beauty)

Add your location to the search (shop local!) and email the companies you find regarding their list of ingredients and their shelf life. To ensure safety, you may want to ask how their products were tested for anti-microbial resistance, and whether they were “challenge tested.” Many small business owners are more than happy to discuss with pride the ingredients they have selected. A couple of businesses I’ve found worth investigating are Kanani Essentials of California and Handmade Naturals in the UK.

And thus we come to the end of my little journey into the ingredient lists, laboratories, and kitchens of a few of the top natural body and skin care manufacturers and a couple small fries, too.

All store-bought brands must use preservatives to maintain their products’ shelf life through warehousing and distribution. I was curious to discover just what their take on “natural preservatives” might be. I hope you’ll find this information useful as you make your personal choices among natural skin care brands!

Love,

Mama Hope

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